Over a year ago my older brother came to us with the news
that he was engaged and that the wedding was planned for Christmas time in
Dunedin. So tickets were booked and
close to a month in Otago was locked in.
Leading up to the event I had a lot to think about but my mind would
often wander to how I would fill the time after the wedding and Christmas had passed,
as could be imagine it didn’t have to wander far before I stumbled upon the
idea that a tramping/fishing trip into Central was in order. So all mandatory celebrations came and went
and we were off.
Jack and I had, after a lot of research, settled on the
Mavora–Greenstone track which under usual circumstances would take us about
three days but we planned a five night tramp with plenty of fishing along the
way in the Mararoa, Greenstone and Caples rivers.

On our day of departure it was clear but windy and so we were
off and arrived at the base of North Mavora Lake at around 2pm. Having never spent much time in Central Otago
I wasn’t quite sure what to expect but what we found looked brilliant, the lake
was clear and lined with bush and tussock, perfect for trout. We resisted the urge to stalk the lake edge
and shouldered our packs setting out for boundary hut a few km past the lake
head on the Mararoa River. Two hours
later and we were arriving at the head of the lake and able to catch our first
glimpses up the valley. Completely
different from anything I had fished before the valley was wide and flat with
steep sides and barley a single tree in site. The river, however unfamiliar, had instant
appeal, crystal clear and snaking its way lazily through the valley floor, I knew
we had made a good choice. With fresh
enthusiasm and laden with six days of supplies we trudged up the valley towards
our first nights’ lodgings in Boundary hut.
Upon our arrival we found a lovely little six bunk hut completely empty
alongside a beautiful pool, a quick snack and we were off with polaroids in tow
to spot our quarry.

It didn’t take long
and we had spotted a nice rainbow cruising in the shallows on the opposite bank
so I sent jack inside to assemble his new rod.
He promptly obliged and returned to stand knee deep in the river casting
under my direction. Having only begun
fly fishing in the last year Jack is still a novice angler and as a result
found casting difficult in the light northerly that had crept into our evening. First fish spooked we moved on upriver to the
next pool with high hopes and slightly more aware of how the wind could put a
major dampener on the trip if it doesn’t play ball. It didn’t take long before we found another
fish happily feeding away and the previous sequence of events repeated
itself. Slightly perturbed we moved
again upriver and found a fish holding in a very fast, very shallow run
nymphing heavily. This time I took the
rod from jack and quickly realised his frustrations that the wind made a good
presentation almost impossible, I crept up in the tussock as far as I dared
until I was almost horizontal to the fish and commenced with some extremely
sloppy casting, six or so presentations later and the fish finally plucked my
fly from the current as it whizzed past, perhaps too hasty on the strike or
just unlucky I ripped the fly from its mouth leaving us coiled in line and dejected
on the river bank. Darkness now falling
we decided to return to the hut with tails between our legs and hope for a
better day tomorrow.
We awoke early and packed up our belongings with the
intention of fishing our way up to Taipo hut in the headwaters of the Mararoa
with packs on our backs, never the most relaxing way to fish but logistically necessary in this case.
Ten minutes out the door and I found myself cursing the North-westerly
which had gathered its forces overnight and was now constantly puffing down the
valley making casting all but impossible.
The sequence of events which followed was spot trout, cast at trout,
spook trout. This continued until lunch
time and although we had seen many trout and some beautiful water we had still
failed to secure any fish and so took our rods apart and tramped straight to
Taipo hut with the intention of fishing a section below the hut the next
morning. Once again we arrived at our
hut to find it empty and on the banks of a beautiful pool with a resident
trout. By this stage the river had begun
to change characteristics and was beginning to gorge up and increase in gradient,
perhaps some shelter would be available should the wind persist. After a quick swim and a feed we were fast
asleep trying to forget the sorrows of a hard days fishing.

Day three we awoke to see that the wind was still not
playing ball. However we set off with a
day pack on and headed for a short gorge about three km downstream where we
were sure to find some sheltered pools.
After an hour of walking through the tussock we arrived at the base of
the gorge to find although still windy it had swung around to the south and was
now a healthy tail wind, perhaps this would be the day. The first pool was deep and narrow and I
quickly spotted a trout actively feeding towards the head of it, Jack once
again assembled his rod and with a dad’s favourite dry attached to the end
begun casting. It was now that I noticed
his casting had come a long way with his first attempt resulting in a near
perfect presentation and an enthusiastic rise from a medium sized rainbow which
proceeded to rip up the entire pool with a fight more reminiscent of a 2kg
kahawai.

After a short but intense
struggle we netted our quarry and I instantly saw the look of accomplishment on
Jacks face as it was the first time he had ever sight fished a decent sized
fish and it was his new personal best fish!
After a quick photo and release we moved on to the next pool
where once again I spotted a nice trout cruising around in the tail. This time my turn, I attached a green humpy and
flicked it upstream to the fish which once more instantly shot to the side and
took my fly. This time a much more
lethargic battle, it didn’t take long before I netted my first fish, a 2.5kg
brown which was accordingly photographed and released.
We continued the pattern of casting and
catching until around lunch time by which stage we had caught and released half a dozen fish,
though nothing bigger than the brown I caught at the start of the gorge.
We had almost fished our way all the way back
to the hut when a small idea implanted itself in my head and before I knew it I
had convinced jack that we would pack up our gear and head for the greenstone
valley that afternoon, a day earlier than planned. The walk down into the greenstone was a lot easier
than expected and after about two and half hours we were strolling along the
banks of the greenstone with renewed enthusiasm. After a quick scramble through the scrub to
the greenstone hut we were greeted with a completely new experience, a hut
overflowing with tourist and kiwi tampers’ alike. We quickly secured a bunk each and begun to
make conversation for the evening with our fellow adventurers, most of whom
were part way through their own 3-4 day trek.
After a fairly rough and cramped night’s sleep we awoke to
find half the hut had already left so we had a leisurely breakfast and headed
down to the river for what was sure to be a good day. Upon arrival at the first access point to the
streambed we found another angler assembling his rod and so after a quick chat
we found ourselves once again trudging upriver another 5km to where we had
agreed with him to begin fishing.
Finally by about 11am we had arrived at where we hoped to get some
fishing done and were not disappointed.
The first pool had at least six fish actively rising in it so we raced
each other to assemble our rods, I won and so cast to the first fish which
after a couple presentations took my dry and I fought a healthy 1.5kg rainbow
to the net. Jacks turn now and once
again he was in and another 1.5kg rainbow was in the net. The day continued in this fashion for an hour
or so during which time we caught another half a dozen rainbows though nothing
of notable size. By this time we were
getting bored of fishing and possibly a case of heat stroke so we headed home
to the greenstone hut for a swim and relax for the afternoon. That night the hut was only half full so much
more pleasant than the previous evening and we got a good night’s sleep as a
result.
The next morning we awoke early and once again packed our
gear and got on the track, this time heading downriver to within 1km of the car
park before branching off again and heading into the Caples valley for the
Mid-Caples hut. With much lighter and
emptier of food packs we made good progress and made the hut by midday, after a
quick chat to the hut warden who had caught a few trout below the hut in the
morning we were off upstream for our final afternoon of fishing. Setting off across the tussock I became aware
that once again the wind was puffing downstream. Whether pointless or not we moved upriver
fishing for and spooking a number of fish until about 3pm when we found a nice
fish feeding in a sheltered little run close into our bank. I sent jack down to make his attempt and
watched from my position sprawled out on the tussock bank as he cast and
successfully hooked the fish.

It gave a
solid fight and I eventually netted a 2.5kg rainbow, jacks new personal best! Wanting
to finish on a good note we decided to head back to the hut and relax before
our short walk out to the car park in the morning.
In total we walked about 100km in search of trout over our
tramp, we were plagued by the wind at times and the sandflies at others,
however it was a completely new area and we both thoroughly enjoyed ourselves
and learnt a lot. I would definitely be
interested in heading back to the area on another trip, although next time I
will be sure to check the wind forecast more carefully first and I will be sure
to get some amazing fishing.